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Post by Christopher on Dec 10, 2012 11:55:14 GMT -6
You'd want to check with your self-leveling manufacturer to see what their stance is on bonding to that felt. As far as the WarmWire itself, as long as it ends up in that mortar, it should be fine. We just don't know how the self-leveler and the felt are going to work together.
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Post by Christopher on Dec 7, 2012 7:27:58 GMT -6
You'll have to replace the whole thermostat. The easiest way to do that would be to pop on in to Home Depot and get one there. If they don't have any on the shelves, they can order it, or you can just buy it from their website.
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Post by Christopher on Dec 6, 2012 7:44:28 GMT -6
Hey Maynard. The GFCI light acting like that is a good indication that the actual GFCI inside the stat is starting to fail. At some point it will probably actually start tripping, cutting power to the floor, and then eventually it will just get stuck closed. It's probably a good idea to start planning to replace it.
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Post by Christopher on Nov 13, 2012 10:27:10 GMT -6
The UnderFloor, with the foil, can't be cut, correct. We don't do custom sizes of those either, or really of any mat. The regular TapeMats can be rearranged however you want, and the WarmWire is already just a loose wire, but the UnderFloor can't be changed.
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Post by Christopher on Nov 12, 2012 8:28:04 GMT -6
The UnderFloor mat you're talking about wouldn't need to go in mortar, and in fact the mortar wouldn't stick to the foil on either side of it anyway. It would just staple to some nailers that were 1' on center. Without that 2" air gap, though, it will have a hard time heating the countertop. The way these work is to actually heat that gap, which then heats the floor (or whatever you have). If there is no gap, there is no air to heat, and it will do much much worse. You'll also lose heat downwards, since I imagine you couldn't insulate under it. My guess is that the mat wouldn't do so great in that situation.
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Post by Christopher on Oct 29, 2012 6:08:57 GMT -6
The first thing you will want to do is to check the resistance of the heating element itself. To do this the thermostat will need to be taken out of the wall to access the wiring in the back. There are detail instructions on this process in the manual, which can be downloaded from www.suntouch.comYou can also check the breaker the SunStat Pro is on to be sure it is not a GFCI breaker. If it is, switch it out for a regular non-GFCI breaker. Also, there should be nothing else using the breaker the 500670 is on.
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Post by Christopher on Oct 5, 2012 8:56:51 GMT -6
Yes, the HeatWeave mat and WarmWire system can both be installed in a tiled shower. The installation manual has a few pages that cover this, so the architect can pull their information directly from there. I am sorry about the delay; we've had some technical difficulties lately getting back on here.
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Post by Christopher on Aug 31, 2012 7:17:39 GMT -6
Mike,
Err3 generally is a result of wiring the power to the stat before wiring the sensor. To clear this up go ahead and disconnect the sensor then shut down the power at the breaker. Give it about 60 minutes or so to ensure it is reset, then wire the sensor back up and turn the power back on. If it comes back with Err3 again, do a factory reset (under the setup menu).
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Post by Christopher on Aug 23, 2012 6:41:01 GMT -6
Either unit works in the same way: when moisture lands on top of the sensor, and the temperature is below (I believe) 35 degree, it will turn the system on for four hours. If there is still moisture and the temperature at that point, it will go for another four hours, etc, until the moisture is gone or the temperature rises.
If you are worried about build up in a particular area, you can still install the LCD-1H on (not in) or close to the ground to help with that.
One of the reasons the HSC-5 is more expensive is because it is rated for traffic to drive over it.
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Post by Christopher on Jun 6, 2012 10:44:06 GMT -6
Once you open up a sub-board, there is a link in the upper right of the frame that says "New Thread" you can click to start a new topic.
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Post by Christopher on May 25, 2012 6:12:53 GMT -6
Radiant in walls can be done, but with a couple of restrictions. First, I would not suggest putting it any higher up the wall than 4'. Above that height is where wall hangings normally are, and the risk of putting a nail or fastener through the tube is fairly large. Second, you'll want to limit your water temperature to no higher than 120 degrees, or the gypsum in the wall boards will begin to degrade. You can get a copy of the PEX+ installation manual at www.wattsradiant.com/support/literatureIt has a section detailing radiant in walls.
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Post by Christopher on Mar 22, 2012 6:07:12 GMT -6
You could wrap some armaflex around the piping where it goes through the wall. that would at least keep it from rubbing directly on the wood.
If you want to shoot nails through the extruded aluminum plate, go ahead. Just be sure to use enough to keep it up so it doesn't fall down in the future. It's kind of heavy once all the piping goes in it.
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Post by Christopher on Mar 20, 2012 6:13:12 GMT -6
Insulation is not needed, and it's really up to you if you want it or not. What it will do is lower your response time and required water temperature, but in a majority of the cases the system will still be able to provide primary heat if you do not insulate.
If you do choose to use some type of insulation, I personally would stay away from the bubble/foil type. Their advertised R-values seem to be a little inflated. Also, the bubbles don't really provide enough of an air gap for the foil to do anything and, after some time, they'll lose all the air anyway. I'd prefer a type of rigid blueboard that is commonly used in slab installs.
In that manual they are using the terms "mud" to mean mortar, yes.
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Post by Christopher on Jan 12, 2012 13:00:57 GMT -6
Check your spam folder and you can even go and re-register if you'd like. The system is automatic; it just replies to whatever email you type in with a code, so I can't get at that. Worst comes to worst you can just sign up for a temporary gmail or similar, and have it send the code there.
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Post by Christopher on Nov 30, 2011 10:03:29 GMT -6
The SC of the model means it was packaged in a clear clam shell. SB means it was packaged in a box. And you are correct that when replacing the stat, the rear part must be changed, since it is where all the actual functions are. The face plate is just a display.
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