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Post by btwhitehurst on Feb 24, 2020 9:20:07 GMT -6
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Post by btwhitehurst on Dec 11, 2017 14:43:09 GMT -6
Was it the panel breaker or the GFCI in the thermostat? Those thermostats have a limited life due to the GFCI and need to be replaced. It is from the date of manufacturer. So the Install date does not always indicate if it is a "new" thermostat. You may get an Err7 or End-of-Life error on the stat.
Once you have the thermostat out to check the date of manufacture. Disconnect the LOAD wires. Do a resistance check between the load wires and between each wire and the shielded ground. The resistance should be between 134 to 10 ohms between the wires and Infinite "open" between each wire and the shielded ground. This test is outlined in the installation manual.
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Post by btwhitehurst on Apr 20, 2017 8:33:24 GMT -6
What thermostat are you using?
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Post by btwhitehurst on Apr 17, 2017 14:33:14 GMT -6
Are you seeing flow on the flowmeters on the zone when the thermostat is off? Are there other zones calling for heat?
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Post by btwhitehurst on Dec 14, 2016 10:18:04 GMT -6
Although you may not think things have changed. Things change! You either have a bad thermostat that may be covered under warranty or you have a fault in your wiring. Check your installation manuals on how to check for faulty wiring. Use an OHM meter to test resistance of the leads coming from the heating cables. They should match the correct resistance values for that length cable. Also test resistance from the hot leads to the shielded ground. There should be no resistance value there. If anything doesn't match up you have a short in your wire and it needs to be replace. You can contact your wholesaler to rent a Watts Wire test kit. We at Pexheat.com have rented it to customers many times. Just be aware you need to leave a large deposit.
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Post by btwhitehurst on Dec 14, 2016 10:08:52 GMT -6
The light is pretty obvious when the GFCI is tripped. You may be at an "END OF LIFE" situation in that stat. All GFCI are built with a life span so that you have to replace them to keep them in good working order as per UL943. The 500650 is a discontinued stat. We at Pexheat.com still have a couple of the 500750-HB left in stock but it is discontinued as well. The current thermostats are the 500850 and 500875.
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Post by btwhitehurst on Dec 14, 2016 10:01:28 GMT -6
I have not seen any instructions but all you need to do is un-screw the metal ring at the base of the actuator from the manifold. Repeat the process to re-install. I have seen plumbers use channel locks on the ring without breaking it.
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Post by btwhitehurst on Dec 14, 2016 9:58:13 GMT -6
You would want to have a heat loss calculation by a competent tech. We at Pexheat do these for free. Just fill out a form on our website. We use the Watts Radiant Works software and will know what will be the most appropriate products and methods to heat your zones.
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Post by btwhitehurst on Dec 14, 2016 9:53:57 GMT -6
Use 1" crown staples. We recommend to our customers to use the same tubing stapler you would use for PEX tubing, just take the tubing guide off the stapler and shoot the staple flush to the plate. However any method that will get the FlexPlate tight to the floor is good.
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Post by btwhitehurst on Dec 14, 2016 9:51:28 GMT -6
Use Onix tubing. It's the best underfloor product Watts carries.
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