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Post by Christopher on Nov 29, 2010 9:59:26 GMT -6
Matt,
I'm not sure. Did anyone do a heat loss or a radiant design for you? That would tell you what the gpm for each zone would be. Without working up a full design and allowing our software to calculate it, I would have no idea.
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Post by Christopher on Nov 9, 2010 11:25:51 GMT -6
Matt,
If you are looking for simplicity, then I would certainly go with one of the Z panels. That way you don't have to worry about too much in your mechanical room, since the panel has the pump to pull directly from your supply if you want. Without doing a heat loss I don't really know what the gpm per circuit would be, but I don't imagine it would be too much.
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Post by Christopher on Nov 8, 2010 16:04:35 GMT -6
Matt, Is this one big area, or are there several smaller rooms? If it's only one area, you can probably get just one of our Zone Pump panels. You can get it with or without actuators, so really you could have five "subzones" off the zone that is the manifold. If you need to mix down your boiler water, we also have a Zone Mix Pump panel, which should be able to do this. The pump on these panels can only do 10 feet of head at 10 gpm, but your area is small enough that this shouldn't matter. You can take a look at these in our catalog, here.
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Post by Christopher on Oct 28, 2010 6:58:23 GMT -6
Steve,
If your J6 setting is set to air, then what is displaying on the screen is the air temperature. The air sensor is built into the actual DualTemp itself, which is why you can't see it.
So what is going on is that the system is regulating your air temperature (the displayed temperature), and the floor limit was set to 74.5. The blinking thermometer means that it was trying to raise your air temperature to 70 (which is where you have it set), but since the floor was already at or over 74.5 (the FH setting), it couldn't fire.
If you only want it to regulate and sense the floor temperature, you need to set J6 to Flr. It will then display the floor temperature, and work to heat the floor to the set point. In this mode it will not care about the air temperature at all.
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Post by Christopher on Oct 27, 2010 14:19:01 GMT -6
Steve,
The blinking thermometer means that it's hit a temperature limit somewhere. Since you're only running off of floor temperature, this can only be the floor limit. Go into your configuration and see what the FH (Floor High) limit is set to. The system will not heat the floor beyond this setting, no matter how you program it.
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Post by Christopher on Oct 20, 2010 10:45:57 GMT -6
Since this is a snow melting system, what your slab sensor was doing was sensing moisture and temperature. When the temperature dropped below 38 degrees and there was moisture present, it would kick the system on.
If it is no longer possible to have a slab sensor, I'd suggest an LCD-1H pole mounted sensor. This works the same way, however you'll mount it out in the open where snow can fall on it.
Snow melting systems generally only need about 80 degree water, if that, so you probably don't need to worry about upper temperature limits. Even so, if you did limit that water temperature to lower than is needed, you won't be able to melt the snow/ice.
Either way, I'd contact our rep in that area, Dave Watson & Associates, at (517) 263-8988. I don't see any wholesalers directly nearby, so they might have a better idea where to buy.
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Post by Christopher on Oct 19, 2010 7:01:34 GMT -6
I'm not sure you'll see any great energy savings. Is this a snowmelting system, or just something to help evaporate water? All the aquastat will let you do is pick a high and low water temperature on the return. I suppose if you set the high mark lower than the water temperature is now, you'll save some, but you'll also reduce the effectiveness of the system. As for what you'll need, you should just need the aquastat, which will then regulate the boiler accordingly. It will have an NC contact as well as an NO contact, and shouldn't need any external power; it's pretty simple. I'm not sure we sell any aquastats anymore, honestly.
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Post by Christopher on Oct 8, 2010 7:44:47 GMT -6
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Post by Christopher on Oct 4, 2010 10:43:12 GMT -6
Michael,
Honestly, I've never done a ceiling radiant job. They were used in the 60's and 70's, I believe, but were really not that great. The problem is that all the heat they produce just floats around at the ceiling, and needs some fan system to temporarily force the heat downward. At that point it's not really a radiant system, but closer to a forced air system. As such, RadiantWorks doesn't have the ability to model a ceiling radiant system.
All that aside, if you go ahead with it, you can use either PEX+ or Onix. The installation is the same as a regular staple up system, just upside down.
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Post by Christopher on Sept 9, 2010 11:29:03 GMT -6
Mike, We don't really have any dimensioned drawings of the boxes. I've attached a little product sheet on them, which has an isometric drawing and includes their sizes. Attachments:
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Post by Christopher on Aug 23, 2010 8:29:22 GMT -6
We don't currently have a heating cable that can go directly in an interior slab. The only way to currently accomplish this would be in a several part pour. You would have to do your base layer of concrete, then install the heating elements and pour a 1/4" layer of SLC over them. At that point you can then come back and pour whatever finished layer of concrete you need, but keep in mind you don't want the total depth over the wires to be more than 1-1/2". Also keep in mind that since this is going on a slab, it will take much longer to heat up than a tile floor over backerboard. All of our literature is found on our literature page at www.suntouch.com/literature
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Post by Christopher on Aug 10, 2010 13:31:21 GMT -6
Jason,
That looks like a Stainless Steel manifold. We do still have those, in 1" and 1-1/2" trunk, with all the options on the one in the picture.
We stopped selling the CazzBrass manifolds because they did not sell very much at all, and the Stainless Steel ones are just as good along with being cheaper.
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Post by Christopher on Aug 10, 2010 6:52:25 GMT -6
I suppose all you really need is a way for water to get in and out of the room, and some way to regulate the water temperature and flow so it doesn't over or under heat the room. As long as you have that, I don't see why there would be any problem. Also, make sure this is a closed-loop system. I'd imagine it is, but you don't want any chance of this water mixing with your potable water.
As a side note, I would definitely go for the gypcrete over the sand; sand is pretty bad at being a radiant mass.
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Post by Christopher on Aug 10, 2010 6:44:40 GMT -6
If you go from 1" down to 1/2" your water velocity is going to change one way or another. If your GPM is meant for the 1" pipe, it's going to be zipping through that 1/2" pipe pretty quickly and probably cause water hammer. If the GPM in the system is meant for the 1/2", it's going to be super slow in the 1", which will drop your pressure there, yes.
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Post by Christopher on Aug 5, 2010 11:05:42 GMT -6
You'll want to run 1" supply and return to the location where the manifold will be then. Since you only have two loops of 1/2", I'm assuming your total flow will be under 12 GPM. The circuit connections coming from the 1" supply and return trunks will be 3/4", and you'll then purchase the correct fitting to go from those to your PEX+, in this case 1/2". You can do either compression or crimp.
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