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Post by Christopher on Aug 5, 2010 6:43:19 GMT -6
Josh, are you using one of our stainless steel manifolds? If so, then yes the supply and returns are probably 1" (we also have 1-1/2", but I doubt you have that). What do your manifolds look like?
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Post by Christopher on Jul 23, 2010 6:57:18 GMT -6
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Post by Christopher on Jul 19, 2010 6:53:50 GMT -6
Jed,
The first thing I would do is double-check the wiring. Make sure the hot and neutral coming from your breaking are going to the black and white Line wires, not the black and white Load wires. The heating element itself will go to the black and white Load wires. If it still doesn't work, I would have Home Depot order you a new one, not pull one from existing stock. Who knows what's happened to those over the past three years.
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Post by Christopher on Apr 8, 2010 8:40:14 GMT -6
Yes, it is possible, but there are a couple precautions to take note of. First, you don't want to put the tubing higher up the wall than 4'. This is to help avoid, say, putting a nail through the tubing when hanging a picture. Second, the water temperature through the tubing cannot be higher than 120 degrees. Over this temperature, anything gypsum based (plaster, drywall, etc) will crumble. Our PEX+ & PEX-AL installation manual (located here) has some good information on the different install techniques.
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Post by Christopher on Mar 22, 2010 9:45:27 GMT -6
I would contact one of our reps, PSI Heating. Their phone number is (888) 774-4328; ask to speak to Bill Sather.
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Post by Christopher on Mar 11, 2010 9:03:38 GMT -6
Dave,
Well, that braided shield is actually part of the ground system, and depending on your local code, it may have also qualified as a necessary conduit. Depending on what your code is, and what your inspector thinks, you may now need to have that power lead in a conduit. It should be possible to re-attach it, using a rosin core solder, as long as there is enough left on the power lead to solder too.
Honestly, I'd be a little worried about these installers at this point...
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Post by Christopher on Mar 10, 2010 9:18:19 GMT -6
Dave, Honestly, when trying to remove the mortar from around the break, you might cut it again, but at that point it doesn't really matter. The repair kit has wire lengths of about 5" - 6", so it will bridge a good section if needed. Actually finding it is the hardest part; once you've located it the repair is pretty easy. Here is a link to the PDF version of the repair instructions.
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Post by Christopher on Mar 9, 2010 10:48:46 GMT -6
Dave,
Your electrician is right. Do not disconnect the ground wire! You'll then be running a system that is shorted out and will cause damage.
Our SunStats each have a built in GFCI that will trip in the event the heating element is damaged. The silver wire that is in the silver braided conduit is actually the ground wire. When you hook it up and it trips the GFCI, that means something has damaged your heating element (probably during the install).
The next step would be to call us here at the factory, (800) 276-2419. We have a couple of different rental tools that can be used by your electrician to find the break. We also have a repair kit to fix it.
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Post by Christopher on Dec 29, 2009 14:48:46 GMT -6
What do all these settings mean?There are really only a couple settings you might want to change. These are as follows: J0: This will change between farenheit and celcius. J5: Turning this on will cause the circulator to run for one minute every three days. This helps to maintain pump lubrication in times when the system is off. J6: Here is where you can select between Air temperature and Flr (Floor) temperature. Air mode will try to maintain the selected air temperature, while keeping the floor temperature between it's low and high limits. Floor mode will simply hold a selected floor temperature. FL: When in Air mode, this is where you will set the low temperature limit of your floor. FH: When in Air mode, this is where you will set the high temperature limit of your floor. To see the full list of settings, you can download the PDF here.
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Post by Christopher on Dec 1, 2009 11:13:24 GMT -6
How long does a radiant house take to heat up from a cold start?
Most radiant floor heat systems will take about a day to come up to full temperature.
The reason for this is due to how the radiant heating system stores energy. Before a radiant floor can emit heat into a space, it first has to raise the floor temperature. Depending on your floor construction and the initial floor temperature, this start up time could be anywhere from a few hours to a few days. For example, slab on grade floors will see the largest start up time, mainly because they have the greatest mass.
What type of maintenance is required for my radiant heating system?
Most maintenance centers on the pumps and boilers. For the most part, the pumps used today are maintenance free. They use water to lubricate the bearings, which allow for more quiet, efficient life span. In general, these pumps have an estimated life span of 10 years. Most boiler installers will offer a yearly maintenance package, which includes cleaning and general up-keep. Different boiler types will require different maintenance.
What type of floor coverings can be used over a radiant heat system?
Most floor coverings can be used over a hydronic heating system, keeping in mind that the system is designed for that particular covering. Tile is the most efficient, since it is the most conductive. Hardwoods come next, and then carpeting. Even vinyl or linoleum can be used. Typically the only design variance between these floor coverings is supply temperature.
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Post by Christopher on Dec 1, 2009 10:29:07 GMT -6
Can I cut the mat/wire?
No, you can not cut the heating element. Our cables are resistance based and if cut will overheat and melt. Due to this, we offer mats and wire in a range of sizes. Cutting the heating element will also void the warranty.
The mesh around the element in our mats, however, can be cut to suit your installation needs.
If the wire has been cut, we offer a repair kit to mend the wire, and various methods of finding the cut if it has been installed.
I have too much mat/wire! What do I do?
There are a couple things you can do. First off, do not ever cut the wire. Because this is a resistance-based heating system, changing the length of the wire will change the resistance, and will cause the wire to overheat and melt.
The first thing to try is running the wire in places you may not have any. One of the best places is behind the toilet. Just be sure you stay 4" from the wax ring at all times.
You might try changing the spacing of the wire from the normal 2.5" down to 2". This is an easy way to get rid of a few extra feet. Simply re-space the last small portion of the heating elements.
If you remained 4" or more from the walls, you can go back around the perimeter, running the extra wire 2" from the walls.
If there is just no way to use up your existing heating element, it will need to be returned, and a smaller sized system can be purchased.
Can I cut the power lead and sensor wire?
If, after pulling the lead and sensor up to your junction box, you find you have a foot or two extra, you may trim those two leads back. This will not effect the resistance reading of either.
Why don't I get any resistance to my green wire?
The green wire is your ground wire. No resistance from black to green and white to green is the reading you want.
You can just write "0" in your resistance log and continue the installation!
However, if you ever do get resistance to your green wire, then you would have a short to ground. Your heating element would then need to be repaired.
Why don't I get any resistance to my sensor wire?
There might be two reasons for this.
First, ensure your meter is not still set to the 200 ohm setting needed for testing the heating elements. You will need to change the meter to the 20k ohms setting to test the sensor.
Second, ensure you aren't using an automatic, or Fluke, meter. These types of meters do not seem to be able to read over 10,000 ohms, and typically cannot see the sensor, which is usually at 12,000 - 14,000 ohms. To resolve this, either dip the sensor in hot water to bring the resistance down, or wire the sensor to the thermostat and then supply power. If it displays the correct temperature, your sensor is fine.
What do I do if I forgot to install the sensor?
The best option would be to remove part of a grout line, drop the sensor in there, and re-grout over the top. However, you will need 3/8" to 1/4" wide grout lines to do this.
If you have access to the floor from below, you can carefully drill a 45 degree angled hole upwards, stopping below the level of the heating elements, and put the sensor there. Hold it in place with a bead of silicone.
If there is no way the floor sensor can be installed, the thermostat itself can be ran in either air sensing or regulator mode. Neither of these will be as efficient or accurate as floor sensing, but it will heat.
My thermostat says ER3. What does this mean?
ER3 is an error code that means the SunStat Pro can't find the sensor. This generally happens if power is supplied to the thermostat before the sensor is wired.
Try resetting the SunStat Pro to clear up this error. To reset the thermostat, cycle through your options using the option button until you come to the screen that says "soft v1.x". While on this screen, press and hold the up and down arrows at the same time until the words "rst done" appear. The error should clear.
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