|
Post by Christopher on Nov 21, 2011 11:30:55 GMT -6
Have you tried trisodium phosphate yet? Generally that's the best way to go, although clay is probably going to be pretty tough. You might need to disconnect those circuits and trying blowing some high pressure air or water through, to see if that knocks it loose.
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on Nov 21, 2011 11:29:31 GMT -6
You will want to have your pump on the supply side of the boiler, but it needs to be on the other side of the expansion tank. What is happening, basically, is that the point where the expansion tank connects is called the point of no pressure change. The pressure cannot change there. Since your pump is pointing right at that, and it can't change that pressure, it ends up dropping pressure on the other side to make the water circulate. This could cause air to get sucked into the system, and then your pump will cavitate. Once your pump is on the other side of the expansion tank, it can then properly raise the pressure upward on that side, since it's no longer pushing at the point of no pressure change.
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on Oct 20, 2011 10:53:41 GMT -6
The foil-faced fiberglass insulation would be your best choice. The bubble insulation tends to not have as much of an R-value as stated, and over time the bubbles are going to deflate and you'll lose most of the insulating factor. Even if you do go with a bubble-foil, you'll still need that 2" air gap.
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on Sept 9, 2011 14:30:20 GMT -6
Is this the newest version downloaded from the website? When you install it, does it do anything odd, or appear to install perfectly fine?
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on Sept 9, 2011 12:42:40 GMT -6
Does it give you any error messages? Does the splash screen come up, but nothing happens? Does it just lock up?
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on Aug 12, 2011 13:15:38 GMT -6
Andy,
Sounds to me like the heating elements themselves might be damaged. Since the GFCI is coming on as soon as the stat sends power to heat, it is likely detecting a short, and tripping the GFCI.
Does your mat install manual have the resistance numbers entered on page four, or do you otherwise have the readings that would need to be taken during the install?
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on Jun 30, 2011 6:05:41 GMT -6
Go ahead and send me the file at campficw@watts.com and I'll take a look at it.
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on Jun 28, 2011 11:29:27 GMT -6
Sounds like it's trying to use an item that doesn't exist. What type and diameter of tubing are you using, and what are your circuit lengths?
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on May 20, 2011 9:12:41 GMT -6
As long as you aren't embedding the radiant heat in the epoxy itself, there will be no issues at all.
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on May 6, 2011 6:54:09 GMT -6
Yes, propylene glycol is safe to use with PEX+, no problems there!
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on Apr 11, 2011 14:39:26 GMT -6
If you are talking about the 10' power lead that wires to the thermostat, then yes you can cut off the extra to avoid coiling it up in your wall.
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on Mar 9, 2011 8:34:21 GMT -6
It's kind of tough to give an accurate ballpark price on a hydronic system without a design, since we don't really know what size tubing to use, which then effects the accessories. The PEX+ alone would probably start at $40,000, published list price, and go up from there if you use larger than 1/2". You might contact a local wholesaler and get their take on an estimate.
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on Mar 4, 2011 11:30:15 GMT -6
If the heating element gets more than 1-1/2" below the finished surface of your new tile, you'll start seeing the time it takes to heat greatly go up, and possibly less heat output as well. Otherwise, there really isn't a problem with what you plan to do.
|
|
|
Post by Christopher on Feb 25, 2011 14:33:35 GMT -6
I would highly recommend putting some type of membrane on top of your slab. Having the system directly on a slab does indeed cause a lot of heat to get lost right down into the earth. The underlayments you will want to use are generally under 1/2", and some are even 1/8", meaning the small amount of ceiling height you'll lose is well worth the extra heat you'll keep in your floor rather than the earth. There are quite a lot of products out there to use; here are some examples. Custom Building Products' EasyMatWedi building panels WECork's WECUNoble Company's NobleSeal TSAnything that is approved for a tile install on a slab would work for us.
|
|
|
O.C.?
Dec 22, 2010 8:00:29 GMT -6
Post by Christopher on Dec 22, 2010 8:00:29 GMT -6
O.C. stands for "On Center". It means the branches are 2" from center to center.
|
|